Festival Overview
In Ahmedabad, evening arrives with music.
Not all at once.
A drum begins somewhere beyond the next neighborhood. Another rhythm answers from farther away. Families dressed in brilliantly embroidered chaniya cholis and kediyus begin walking toward community grounds while children hurry a few steps ahead, already practicing dance steps they know by heart. Across the city, thousands of circles are quietly beginning to form.
As darkness settles, those circles grow larger. Some hold a few dozen dancers. Others fill enormous festival grounds with thousands of people moving together beneath lights that seem to stretch forever. Songs change, musicians pause, someone new joins the line, someone else steps away for water, yet the dance itself never seems to stop.
Visitors often arrive expecting to watch Navratri.
It rarely takes long before the music persuades them to step into the circle themselves.
