Up Helly Aa

Up Helly Aa turns Lerwick into a winter ritual of fire, costume, and community theatre. The day carries a sense of buildup through the Lerwick town centre streets, then the focus tightens around the torchlit procession route through central Lerwick before the night opens out again at the halls. What stays with most visitors is not only the flames but the sight of the Jarl Squad appearance, the ranks of guizers in full dress, and the way the whole town seems to lean into one long January night.

From daytime onward, people gather in central Lerwick as preparations and anticipation build through the streets and harbour side. By evening, attention shifts to the assembly of guizers and squads, then to the torchlit procession as spectators hold their places along the route rather than wandering much once the streets fill. The biggest outdoor moment comes with the ceremonial burning of the galley at King George V Playing Fields, where heat, smoke, and torchlight hit hard against the dark. After that, the night changes shape again as people peel away from the outdoor crowds and head to community halls used for late-night performances, with singing, sketches, visits, and celebrations carrying on into the early hours.

The darkness of January makes the flames, costumes, and marching torches feel even more dramatic.

Cold weather and a long day outside make Lerwick's hearty food feel part of the experience during Up Helly Aa. Between time on the harbour side, waiting along the procession route, and warming up after the burning, this is the moment for seafood chowder, reestit mutton dishes, hot tea, and a dram of whisky rather than anything fussy. Must Try:

• seafood chowder
• fish and chips
• reestit mutton dishes
• bannocks and baked goods
• whisky